Huckleberry Stripes: My First Sweater

Bea Kulyanee
Dec 7
6 min read

Updated: Dec 17

This sweater is my first ever knitting project. It is actually version 2.0. Just like my other crafts, it had been through trials and errors. Well, I have to say I'm really pleased with this improved version.

In May 2025, I needed a wool sweater for my trip to Banff. So, I decided it was time to knit my own sweater. I had about a month to learn how to knit. It seemed pretty daunting at first. I started looking up video tutorials and blogs explaining all the basic stuff I needed to know. It was like going down a rabbit hole. I studied a few free sweater patterns, and then I came up with my own.

I ordered six skeins of merino yarn in five colours from China. I thought the yarn was 100% merino, but I found the exactly same brand of yarn on another two online shops advertising it as 50% merino and 50% synthetic (either polyester or acrylic, different on each site), which actually made more sense since the yarn was much cheaper than 100% merino. The label must be wrong too since there is no way this is worsted weight yarn. It feels more like the sport weight with the thickness between 2.5mm and 3mm.

I have some notes on knitting needles too, but I'll write them in a separate post with other things I've learnt from all the trials and errors.

It took me about two weeks to finish it. I flogged it once and started all over. I washed and dried it, with the help of an electric fan, the same night as my flight. I wore it to the airport and during the flights. I was worried that it would be too hot, but it was totally fine in airconditioned airports and planes. Narita was pretty warm, and before I reached my gate, I was sweating. However, since it's merino, it didn't smell. I fell in love with it then and there.

Anyhow, I found that it's totally possible to learn and finish a sweater in a month. The finish project fits me perfectly. I wrote down the pattern for beginners with the tips for adjustments. I also draw a short-row diagram to make it easier to understand. The followings are some tutorials and articles I learnt from:

Now, if you are ready to create your own sweater, head to my Ravelry store. The downloadable pattern for beginners with the diagram of the short-row is now available. Cheers!

Ravelry

PATTERN

Materials and gauge

Materials:

3.5mm needles (80cm circular needles for body and DPN for sleeves / extra short circular needles specifically for socks or sleeves)
3.0mm needles (40cm circular needles for ribbing / DPN / extra short circular needles)
6 skeins of no. 2 or fine weight merino yarn for size XS, approx. 150cm each (body width: approx. 32.5 cm/13in)
A measuring tape, a tapestry needle, stitch markers/paperclips, and scissors
A crochet hook in a similar size to pick up stitches (optional)

Gauge: 10cm/4in ≈ 26 stitches, 34 rows

Pattern notes

This merino sweater pattern is simple and written for beginners. It is in fact my very first knitting project that had been through errors and trials. In this pattern, several tips I learnt along the way have also been included. After familiarising yourself with knit and purl, cast-on, and cast-off, you can start making your own sweater.

This sweater is made from top to bottom in the round. It is snug fit. There are six parts: neck, yoke, body, hem, sleeves, and cuffs. This pattern makes a size-XS sweater, but it is easy to adjust to your size. You just need to know your gauge and use a measuring tape. Increase or decrease stitches as you see fit. Since it is made top down, you can try it on as you go. If you choose thicker yarn or different size needles, adjust accordingly.

Abbreviations

BLM = back left marker

BRM = back right marker

DPN = double pointed needle

FLM = front left marker

FRM = front right marker

GSR = German short row

Inc = increase

K/k = knit

K2tog = knit 2 together

LLI = left lifted increase

P/p = purl

R = round

RLI = right lifted increase

RS = right side

Sl = slip

SSK = slip, slip, knit

SM = stitch marker

St/sts = stitch(es)

T = turn

WS = wrong side

YO = yarn over

Ribbed neck

3.5mm DPN

Long-tail cast-on: 108 + 1 sts, (multiple of 12 + 1, to set up for k2, p2 ribbing).

Invisible joining:

• Slip the first stitch onto the right needle.

• Lift the last stitch over the first stitch and off the needle, making the base of the first stitch.

• Move the first stitch back on the left needle and slice a stitch marker onto the right needle, (108 sts).

Ribbing: R1 – R7: [k2, p2] x 27, (at least about 1 inch, 108 sts).

Raglan yoke with German short rows

If you feel like a challenge, you can add German short rows to raise the back of the neck.

If you opt out, you will get a boat neck. Skip this part, start the raglan set-up, and follow the raglan yoke instructions.

Raglan set-up:

Colour A

R1: BRM, k18, FRM, k36, FLM, k18, BLM, and k36.

Colour B

R2: k108.

German short rows:

T1: sl BRM, k to FRM, and k3.

GSR: turn (to the WS), [sl the st on the left to the right purl wise, pull the yarn down to create double sts]*a.

T2: bring the yarn to the front, p to FLM, and p3.

GSR: turn (to the RS) and yarn in front, [sl the st knit wise, pull the yarn down]*b. T3: k to 1 st before BRM, [RLI, sl SM, k1, LLI]*c, k to 1 st before and c at FRM, k to 1 st before the double sts, k them together, and k3.

GSR: turn (to the WS), *a.

T4: p to 1 st before the double sts, p them together through the back loops, and p3.

GSR: turn (to the RS), *b.

T5: k to 1 st before and *c at each SM, k to 1 st before the double sts, k them together, and k3.

GSR: turn (to the WS), *a.

T6 – T12: repeat T4 – T5.

T13: k to 1 st before and *c at FLM and BLM, k to BRM.

End of short rows, (inc 8 sts in 6 rounds, 30, 48, 30, 48 sts.)

Raglan yoke:

R1: sl BRM, k all around.

R2: k to 1 st before and c at each SM, (raglan inc every 4th round.)

Repeat R1 and R2 until you reach the underarm. The length along the raglan increase line at the front is around 17.5cm/7in, (47 rounds). The width from FRM to FLM is about 30cm/12in. Change colours when you desire or run out of Colour B. (54, 72, 54, 72 sts)

Underarm divide:

Once you get to the underarm, transfer the sts from BRM to FRM (54 sts) onto scrap yarn or spare needles. Turn to the WS, cast on 12 sts using the cable cast-on method, turn to the RS, k from FRM to FLM, transfer the sts from FLM to BLM (54 sts) onto scrap yarn, turn to the WS, cast on 12 sts, turn to the RS, k to BRM. (Sleeves: 66 sts each, body: 168 sts)

It is alright to remove the other SMs at this stage. Keep BRM in place to mark the beginning of the round.

Body

K all around until you get to the desired length. Each stripe is about 10cm/4in.

Ribbed hem

Colour A

3.5mm 80cm circular needles

R1: k all around, (168 sts.)

3.0mm 80cm circular needles

R2 – R37: [k2, p2] x 42

R38: cast off in rib st using a stretchy cast-off method.

Sleeves

3.5mm DPN

R1: pick up 6 sts from the centre of the underarm, k54, and pick up another 6 sts, SM, (66 sts.)

R2 – R60: k all around until passing the elbow.

R 61 – R 131: Start decreasing every 8th round (leaving at least an inch between each decrease) after the elbow. Ssk before and k2tog after SM. Follow the pattens until you reach the desired length before adding the cuff.

Cuffs

Colour B

3.5mm DPN

R1: k all around, (48 sts.)

3.0mm DPN

R2 – R24: [k1, p1] x 24

R 25: cast off in rib st using a stretchy cast-off method.

Hide all the tails.

The sweater is now done!