Summer Filet Vest
- Bea Kulyanee
- Mar 27, 2024
- 6 min read
Updated: Apr 5
I made this summer filet vest primarily for tropical weather to wear with a halter neck blouse or a shift dress to a place where tops with sleeves are preferred. Silly, I know. This vest does not exactly cover my shoulders, but it helps increase the sophistication, which somehow makes it less frowned upon as people's attention are drawn to the craft itself.
This is the very first pattern I decided to share and sell. It was exciting to learn how to write written instructions and a crochet stitch chart.
This vest is light and easy to make. It is made mostly from double crochet (DC) stitches. It is seamless with no sewing. The pattern consists of left front panel, right front panel, back panel, edge, and sides.
Now, pick up a hook and scroll down for the free pattern, or click the Ravelry button below to purchase the downloadable easy-to-read PDF with the stitch chart, stitch tips, and a joining tip.
MATERIALS
Yarn: 100% cotton (3 ply), approx. 1 skein = 280 m
Hooks and tools: 7.0 mm (for the body), 6.0 mm (for the edge), tapestry needle, scissors, measuring tape
Gauge: 9 stitches and 5 rows = 5 cm in double crochet stitches
PATTERN NOTES
The front of the vest is made in rows from bottom up and continue down the back. Each row starts and ends with dc2tog or fdc2tog which helps keep the edge straight. The edge is done in rounds.
The size is adjustable. This piece is measured 38 x 42 cm. The front panels (without edge) are 14 cm each, and approx. 18.5 cm each with edge. The front panels without edge are about 10 cm narrower than the back panel.
To make it into your own size, measure the width of your back or a back of your favourite top.
ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain
chsp = chain space
dc = double crochet
dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
dc3tog = double crochet 3 together
fdc = foundation double crochet
fdc2tog = foundation double crochet 2 together
fsc = foundation single crochet
prv = previous
r = row
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
sl = slip stitch
st = stitch
tu = turn
v = v-stitch
PATTERN CODES
1 = ch 2, tu
2 = 1 dc in the last st of the prv r
3 = ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc in the next st
4 = ch1, sk 1, 1 dc2tog in the last st
5 = 1 dc2tog in the last st
6 = 1 dc2tog in the last st and chsp of the prv r
7 = ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc3tog in the last 2 sts
8 = 1 dc3tog in the last chsp and st
9 = 1 dc2tog in the last 2 sts of the prv r
10 = ch 1, sk 1, 1 v in the next st
PATTERN
Right front panel
R 1: 24 fdc, 1 fdc2tog. (25 sts – add or reduce stitches to fit your size. Keep it in an odd number.)
R 2: 1, 2, 11 x 3, and 4. (25 sts)
R 3: 1, 2, 23 dc in each ch space and dc, and 5. (25 sts)
R 4-14: repeat R 2 and R 3. (25 sts)
Add or reduce rows for your size. Then, start decreasing stitches to make neckline.
R 15: 1, 6, 22 dc, and 5. (24 sts)
R 16: 1, 2, 10 x 3, and 7. (23 sts)
R 17: 1, 6, 20 dc, and 5. (22 sts)
R 18: 1, 2, 9 x 3, and 7. (21 sts)
I start decreasing stitches for an arm hole here. Adjust according to your size.
R 19: 1, 6, 17 dc, and 8. (19 sts)
R 20: 1, 9, 7 x 3, and 7. (17 sts)
R 21: 1, 6, 13 dc, and 8. (15 sts)
R 22: 1, 9, 5 x 3, and 7. (13 sts)
R 23: 1, 6, 9 dc, and 8. (11 sts)
R 24: 1, 9, 3 x 3, and 7. (9 sts)
I stop decreasing and continue with 9 stitches to the top of my shoulder.
R 25: 1, 2, 7 dc, and 5. (9 sts)
R 26: 1, 2, 3 x 3, and 4. (9 sts)
R 27- 34: Repeat R 25 and R 26. (9 sts)
Cut the yarn and hide the tail. The right front panel is done. This is the only separate piece. Increase and decrease rows and stitches as you wish.
Left front panel
R 1-14: repeat the instructions for the right front panel. (25 sts)
R 15: 1, 2, 22 dc, and 8. (24 sts)
R 16: 1, 9, 10 x 3, and 4. (23 sts)
R 17: 1, 2, 20 dc, and 8. (22 sts)
R 18: 1, 9, 9 x 3, and 4. (21 sts)
R 19-34: Follow the instructions for the right front panel. (9 sts)
Do not cut the yarn. We will continue to work on the back panel from this row and join with the right front panel.
Back panel
R 35: 1, 2, 7dc, 5, 24 fsc, 5 of the right front panel, 7 dc, and *5. (43 sts – the first chain of the fsc counts as a stitch. Add or reduce the fsc according to the width of your neck. The panels are now joined.)
R 36: 1, 2, 9 x 3, 2 x 10, 9 x 3, and 4. (47 sts)
R 37: 1, 2, 45 dc, and *5. (47 sts)
R 38: 1, 2, 9 x 3, 10, 2 x 3, 10, 9 x 3, and 4. (51 sts)
R 39: 1, 2, 49 dc, and *5. (51 sts)
R 40: 1, 2, 24 x 3, and 4. (51 sts)
R 41-47: repeat R 39 and R 40. (51 sts)
R 48: 1, 2, 9 x 3, 10, 4 x 3, 10, 9 x 3, and 4. (51 sts)
R 49: 1, 2, 53 dc, and *5. (55 sts)
R 50: 1, 2, 9 x 3, 10, 6 x 3, 10, 9 x 3, and 4. (59 sts)
R 51: 1, 2, 57 dc, and *5. (59 sts)
R 52: 1, 2, 28 x 3, and 4. (59 sts)
R 53-69: repeat R 51 and R 52 (59 sts)
The back panel is finished. Then, ch 2 – counting as a stitch – to start making the edge.
Edge
I switch to a 6 mm hook. I add 2 rounds of dc stitches all around the piece without turning. After you add the last stitch of the first round, join with a slip stitch or using the technique. Then, continue with round 2.
Make sure the edge is not too crowded or sparse. It should lay flat. I add extra few stitches at the corners. When you finish all the rounds, join with a slip stitch to continue to work on the sides.
Sides
Ch 5, sk 2, sl into the next one. Repeat. Leave about 20-23 cm (8-9 in) for an arm hole. Adjust according to your size. Dc in the next stitch and around to the front panel until you reach the first corresponding dc on the back. Sl in the next st, ch 2, sl in the 5-ch space, ch 2, sk 2, sl in the next st. Repeat. Cut the yarn and hide the tail.
Do the same on the other side. The vest is now ready.
© 2024 Bea Kulyanee. The pattern is for personal use only. Do not sell, distribute or claim as your own.
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