Summer Haze Shift Dress

Bea Kulyanee
Apr 8, 2024
6 min read

Updated: Dec 17

Well, third time is a charm. Being a perfectionist as I am, I frogged it again and again. This time is the last, I promise. The yarn would be too fray if I frogged it again anyway. I think I'm happy with how this one has turned out. Let's look at all the versions first.

A striped shift dress — Summer Haze Version 1 © Bea Kulyanee

The first version was made in September 2022. It was too tight and heavy. I used a small hook - either 4 mm or 5 mm - because I wanted to avoid gaps between each stitch. It fitted rather well, actually, but it was too stuffy to wear in the hot weather. The light colours were bled on likely by other clothing items. So, I ripped it. RIP.

The second version was finished in November 2023. I used a bigger hook, 7 mm, this time. I made it a bit longer as well, coming down to just above my knees. And that was the mistake. When using a large hook with lightweight yarn, the project will be stretchier. Plus, the longer the dress, the heavier it will be. You can guess what happens. When I wore it, the dress was pulled down by gravity. It didn't feel comfortable even though it was not stuffy. So, I ripped it again. RIP. (Funny how rip and RIP spell the same.)

Wearing a striped shift dress — Summer Haze Shift Dress © Bea Kulyanee

Here come the third and final version, finished in April 2024. I used a 7 mm hook. I learned from the mistakes I made and kept this one 85 cm long, the same as my store-bought shift dress. It comes down to the middle of my thighs. So far, it's quite comfortable to wear. I really like the design as well although I ran out of the orange yarn. I think this one definitely is the winner.

The pattern with its diagram, stitch tips and pictures of the joining steps is now available to purchase from my Ravelry store.

Ravelry

PATTERN

Materials and gauge

Yarn: 100% cotton (light weight - fingering or sport), 5 colours, approx. 50 g or 140 m each

Hooks and tools: 7.0 mm, tapestry needle, scissors, measuring tape

Gauge: 15 stitches and 9 rows = 10 cm in double crochet stitch

Pattern notes

This shift dress is made top down. There are five parts: yoke, bodice, skirt, valley, and edges. The bodice is done in rows and turning rounds (join and turn), the valley in rows, and the other parts in turning rounds. Hence, there is no need for sewing. The seam is barely visible. The front and the back are the same.

The mid-thigh shift dress measures 85 cm long. The chest is 36 cm wide. The dress is approximately a size XS. It is easy to adjust the measurement to your preferred size by using a measuring tape.

Abbreviations

ch = chain

chsp = chain space

dc = double crochet

dc2tog = double crochet 2 together

fsc = foundation single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

prv = previous

r = row/round

sc = single crochet

sk = skip

sl = slip stitch

st = stitch

tu = turn

v = v stitch

vl = valley

Yoke

(Colour A) The starting point is at the centre of the yoke or the peak.

AR 1: 98 fsc, and jo with the technique. (98 sts. Add or remove stitches to fit your size. Keep it in an even number divisible by 4 + 2.)

AR 2: 1, 48 dc, 2, 48 dc, and 3. (102 sts = 101 + the first stitch from the join)

AR 3: 1, 50 dc, 2, 50 dc, and 3. (106 sts)

AR 4: 1, 52 dc, 2, 52 dc, and 3. (110 sts)

AR 5: 1, 54 dc, 2, 54 dc, and 3. (112 sts)

AR 6 – 14: Follow the pattern. (R 14 = 150 sts)

To make the frill, work the next round in the front two loops.

AR 15: ch 2, 1 dc, 5, 11 x 4, 5, 10 x 4, 5, 13 x 4, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, ch 1, 1 dc, 12 x 4, 5, 10 x 4, 5, 11 x 4, 5, ch 1, and 3.

AR 16: working in the chsps, 1 v, 19 x 6, 1 sc, 1 v, ch 1, (1 v, ch 2, 1 v), ch 1, 1 v, 19 x 6, 1 sc, 1 v, (1 v, ch 2, 1 dc, ch 1), and 3.

The yoke and the frill are done. Cut the yarn and hide the tail.

Bodice

(Colour B) This part is made up of 5 rows for both the front and the back of the dress. It is then worked in turning rounds. Start from the 27th stitch of AR 14, (the middle one is the 1st). Work in the back two loops. Adjust the starting point according to the measurement of your chest. Add or reduce stitches and rows to fit your size.

BR 1: tu, (ch 2, 1 dc), 25 dc, 2, 25 dc, and 1 2-dc cluster. (55 sts)

BR 2: tu, ch 2, 1 dc2tog in the base of the ch 2 and the next st, 25 dc, 2, 25 dc, and 1 dc2tog, (55 sts)

BR 3: tu, (ch 2, 1 dc), 26 dc, *2, 26 dc, and 1 2-dc cluster. (57 sts)

BR 4-5: repeat the pattern of BR 3. (BR 5 = 61 sts)

Cut the yarn on both sides and hide the tails.

The front and the back are joined here. Start from the peak at the back. I found it neater this way. Once reaching the end of the row, continue the round by working into the stitch at the front. You can make it straight down to the hem or shape the bodice and the skirt as you like.

BR 6: (ch 2, 2 dc), 28 dc, 2 x 7, 28 dc, 2, 28 dc, 2 x 7, 28 dc, and 3. (122 sts)

BR 7: 2dc, 28 dc, 2 x 7, 28 dc, 2, 28 dc, 2 x 7, 28 dc, and 3. (122 sts)

BR 8-12: follow the pattern. (122 sts)

Join with Colour C at the end of BR 12.

Skirt

(Colour C)

CR 1: follow the pattern. (122 sts)

CR 2: decrease by adding 2 x *7 at each side. (118 sts)

CR 3-5: follow the pattern. (118 sts)

CR 6: decrease again (114 sts)

CR 7-10: follow the pattern. (114 sts)

At the end of CR 10, join with Colour D

(Colour D) Start from the centre.

DR 1-2: follow the pattern. (114 sts)

DR 3: increase by working 1 dc instead of dc2tog. (118 sts)

DR 4-8: follow the pattern. (118 sts)

DR 9: increase again. (122 sts)

DR 10: follow the pattern. (122 sts)

At the end of DR 10, join with Colour E.

(Colour E)

ER 1-4: follow the pattern. (122 sts)

ER 5: increase. (126 sts)

ER 6-10: follow the pattern. (126 sts)

ER 11: increase again. (130 sts)

ER 12: follow the pattern. (130 sts)

At the end of ER 12, join with Colour B.

(Colour B)

BR 1-2: follow the pattern. (130 sts)

At the end of BR 2, join, cut the yarn and hide the tail.

Valleys

(Colour B) Now, we are going to fill the valleys. Start from the 3rd st (the middle one is the 1st).

VR 1: 2 sl, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 15 dc, 2 x 7, 25 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 sl. (60 sts)

VR 2: tu, 5 sl, 1 sc in the 3rd dc, 1 hdc, 20 dc, 2 x 7, 20 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 sl (53 sts) VR 3: tu, 5 sl, 1 sc in the 3rd dc, 1 hdc, 34 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 sl (45 sts)

VR 4: tu, 5 sl, 1 sc in the 3rd dc, 1 hdc, 11 dc, 2 x 7, 11 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 sl (35 sts) VR 5: tu, 5 sl, 1 sc in the 3rd dc, 1 hdc, 6 dc, 2 x 7, 6 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 sl (25 sts) VR 6: tu, 5 sl, 1 sc in the 3rd dc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2 x *7, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 sl (15 sts)

Repeat on the other side

Edges

Hem

R 1: tu, ch 2, dc all around, and *3.

R 2: dc all around and join.

Cut the yarn and hide the tail.

Armholes

R 1: 1 sc all around and sl.

Cut the yarn and hide the tail. The dress is finished.